Stuff Sack Tutorial

We are planning a camping trip again and will be bringing along too much stuff.  In an effort to condense some stuff, I made these stuff sacks.

Last year I created these sleeping mat toppers that made sleeping in the tent quite nice.  They are cut from fluffy memory foam which takes up a lot of space.  I stored them in garbage bags, two to a bag.  I thought a stuff sack or even a compressible stuff sack would help out.

After looking at available products and considering some dry bags we already own, I created my own stuff sacks.  Fortunately I had all the materials I needed at home.  I started with PUL waterproof material, leftover from diaper making.  Another option would have been to use nylon.  The 1" buckles I had leftover from baby carrier making days.  For the strapping, I only had a small amount salvaged from something.

To test sizing, I tried out a half sized pillowcase I had made.  It was just right when I rolled the memory foam up.

Instructions:

Cut two 14"x 24" pieces of PUL
Cut two 2.75" one inch webbing
one 1" buckle
1" webbing or ribbon, 28" long

Stitch 1" ribbon/webbing along one short edge of each 14" x 24" piece of PUL.  Because PUL doesn't fray, I didn't finish the top edges

With right sides together, insert buckles and webbing into each side seam at top

 Stitch both sides and bottom edge

Pull out corners into triangle and sew in 1.5" to make box corners (Or it could be left square)

After boxing both lower corners, the bottom should look like this

Flip stuff sack right side out and top stitch where the webbing attaches to the side seam, this encloses the raw edges and gives it more stability.

Finished stuff sack

The memory foam topper folded and then rolled

Because I only had ribbon available for the top edges, I don't feel these have quite as much stability as if I had used webbing.  However the ribbon is much cheaper and what I had available.  The ribbon does keep the PUL from stretching.

Even Easier Luggage Tags - A Tutorial

After making a few luggage tags with multiple layers, I decided I wanted a simplified method and after making a few of these and tweaking the design a little, I thought it was worth sharing.

These luggage tags are the perfect size for a business card or just a name.  Different prints can be used or a combination of pieced fabrics with or without some ribbon.

Luggage Tag Tutorial

Step 1 

Cut

• two 3.25" x 5" fabric or piece together for a different look
• two 2.75" x 4.5" of heat bond craft interfacing
• one 5" x 1.25" strip for bias
• one 1.5" x 12" strip for the handle
• one 3.25 x 4" of clear plastic vinyl

Step 2

Center interfacing on the back of each 3.25" x 5" rectangle and adhere

Step 3

Make small bias tape.  The strip is 1.25" x 5" which is pretty narrow.  Making it a big bigger would work too.  Iron in half, then open, iron each long side towards the center line, then iron together making a bias tape.




 Step 4
Place bias on top of clear plastic sandwiching one of the 4" sides, sew close to bottom edge.









Step 5
Layer pieces for sewing.  With right side up of print, add plastic with bias on top, then with right side down, place other print on.  Right sides are then together for each print and the clear plastic is sandwiched in between.

















Step 6
Sew around edges with a 1/4" seam allowance being careful not to have the plastic slip.  Begin near top corner, leaving a small opening for turning.  Clip corners and any bias or plastic not lined up.

Step 7
Turn right side out.  This is certainly tricky; the materials are stiff and the opening is small.

Step 8

Push all four corners out with a pencil or chop stick.  Being very mindful of the plastic, give a quick iron on the back and all edges.  Turn under the open edges and iron.

Step 9
Take 1.5" x 12" strip and iron in half.  Open back up and iron each long end towards the center line.  Then fold in half and iron again.  Sew down the long edges of the strap close to the edges.

Step 10

Insert both raw edges of the strap into the luggage tag.  Center the strap.  Insert about 1/2" of ends.

Step 11

Sew a box around the ends inside the luggage tag.  Then top stitch around the whole luggage tag being sure to catch both sides of the opening at top.

Luggage Tag

It's tricky to sew over the plastic.  Tissue paper can be used under the presser foot or a special teflon presser foot can be used.  I've done both and the new to me foot is worth it.  Holding the presser foot up a bit while sewing helps going over bumps and at the corners.

Heart Pillow Instructions

Heart pillows are just right to tuck under the arm after breast surgery or node surgery.  They can also be helpful for sleeping or in the car to soften the seat belt.  This instructions are intended to help others sew pillows for donation.

Fabrics:  I like to use a cotton on one side and a microfiber on the other. Cotton could be used on both.  Flannel or fleece cold be used too. Washable fabrics are best.  Pre-wash all fabrics. Fabric scraps lend themselves to this project.  A crazy quilt design could be done or just strips of fabric to make up the heart shape.

Also needed:

Heart pattern

Sewing machine

Coordinating thread

Pins

Hand sewing needle

Iron

Poly-Fil


Heart Pillow Instructions:
1. Cut out 2 hearts with pattern placed on fold.  One is for the front and one is for the back.  If piecing either heart, sew pieces together with a 1/4" seam allowance to make up a heart shape.
2.  With right sides together, pin front to back.

3.  Sew front to back with a 1/4" seam allowance, leaving a small 2.5" opening on a straighter area of the heart.  (See images)  Beginning at opening, sew around.  Take corners slowly and make turns with needle in.  Finish at the opening and leave 2.5" open for stuffing.
4.  Clip all curves and inner corner at top of heart.

5.  Turn right sides out, carefully opening all seams

6.  Press 

7.  Fill pillow with Poly-Fil, put stuffing towards curved heart edges to fill out heart, fill center, then finally the lower tip.

8.  Pin and close opening by hand with a small blind stitch.

Seven inch Pinwheel Tutorial

After looking around at how pinwheels are created, I chose a simple pinwheel design. There are different methods for making half square triangles and many tutorials about different sized pinwheels. I wanted a medium sized pinwheel. Here is one way to make a 7" square pinwheel block. 

Shirred Back Sundress Tutorial

When shopping for the princess sundress material, we also spied a lovely turquoise and purple coordinating collection.  We picked out three prints and I searched around for pattern ideas. After finding many great tutorials out there, I decided to copy the bodice from a dress we have and then add shirring to the back. Giving it a full skirt was also part of the plan. 

I started tracing the dress bodice. After it was all done, I think I allotted too much for seam allowances and it would fit a bit better smaller across. I took pictures along the way and will share them as a basic tutorial. This is about a 3T. 

1/2 yard of each fabric would be plenty

Cut

2 front bodice pieces

1 back 3.5" wide by 16" long

2 straps 4.5" wide by 12" long

1 main skirt panel 14" long by 44" wide

1 bottom ruffle 4" by 60" 

1 strip for the bottom edge totaling 60" long by 1.5" wide 

Take back piece and hem top edges by folding in the raw edge twice and top stitching. 

Next with a hand wound bobbin of elastic thread and coordinating top thread using a long stitch length, sew rows of stitching close together the whole width of the back piece. Steaming the elastic afterwards brings the shirring together further. Sew down each short edge securing the elastic thread. 

Prepare the straps.  Fold each strap over right sides together, sew the long edge in a 1/4" seam allowance. Turn and top stitch. Because the straps are wider, I decided to add a little pleat in the strap before sewing it into the bodice. 

Position each strap at the top edge of one bodice, right sides together.  Then add the other bodice sandwiching the straps in. Sew across top edges catching the straps. Leave sides open.

Turn and press.  

Open side seams and press under 1/4" on the front bodice side seams.

Attach the back to the bodice front slipping the back between the turned under side seams. 

Take strip and fold in half, then fold long edges into fold, press.  

Prepare bottom ruffle, sew together to make up about 60".  Finish edge with serger or zig zag.

Sew strip onto bottom edge so the raw edge is enclosed. 

Gather top edge of bottom ruffle.

Prepare the skirt.  Sew ends together, right sides together. Finish edge with serger or zig zag.  Add ruffle to bottom edge of skirt. Finish edge with serger or zig zag.

Gather top edge of skirt and attach to bodice. Stretch out shirring while sewing the gathered skirt. Finish edge with serger or zig zag. 

Check size of straps and positioning, adjust and sew to back. I zigzagged the strap edge after attaching it. Final step is to top stitch on bodice front. 

Sundress front

Sundress Back with shirring

            

Heart Shaped Hand Muff

A hand warmer muff was on my mind today. I had one as a child. It was fuzzy and warm.

I thought it might be a nice "pocket" option for my toddler.

I'm not quite sure she gets it yet. She will put her hands in and say warm. She will try to put things in sometimes too. But really she wants to carry it around like a purse.

This was a pretty easy and quick project. The trickiest part for me was figuring out which sides get sewn together. The first try was good for learning, but that is about it.

The basic steps are as follows.
Cut out four heart shapes. I used fleece. Sew 2 hearts together, right sides together on the sides only. The amount of side seam is how much of an opening for the hands you will have. Repeat this step with the other 2 hearts.

Make a strap. I cut one long piece, sewed a seam, right sides together and turned. I was careful to have the stretch go sideways. I put it up to my child to determine the length.

Turn one heart right side out. Place it inside the other heart. Doing this, they will now be right sides together. Match up all the same edges.

Pin the tops of the heart and the bottoms of the heart together. You will be sewing the two hearts to each other. A lining to the outside if that makes sense.

Before sewing, attach the strap. It will mostly be inside, between the two hearts, with the two ends poking out in the seam where you want them. Also, be sure to leave a small opening for turning the whole thing right side out.

Sew carefully around the top and bottom leaving a small area for turning. I left part of the bottom open as it is a nice straight area. Remove all pins, clip curves and turn right side out. Smooth all seams. Stitch up the small opening and it is done!

If there is ever interest in a better tutorial with pictures, I could probably be talked into doing that. It really was a fast project, even with a toddler climbing on me and "helping."